When NICK BURRAGE told us he had a very interesting way of tying the chod rig, it was time to sit up and take note.
Nick Burrage On one Shropshire mere, Nick managed 120 bites in his first season by thinking about his approach and staying ahead of the other anglers on the venue. Sponsors: Sonik, Nutrabaits, Gardner and Phatfish Clothing
This is how I like it to sit, giving the rig much more movement a buoyant chod setup
Like most things in carp fishing, I came across this way to fish the chod rig purely by accident. I’d been fishing a lake called Birch Grove in Shropshire and had just landed a lovely carp. Interestingly, the hook-hold was perfect. With just the ring of the swivel level with the carp’s lips, the hook had set two inches back in the mouth and plumb in the middle at the bottom.
Unhooked, weighed, photographed and returned, I dropped the rig into the crystal-clear margins to see my small 12mm pop-up unable to support the full weight of the rig. The hook point had dropped and was resting on the detritus on the lake bed – the lazy chod was born (for me at least).I frequently margin fish whenever I can, opting to stalk fish where possible. I also spend a lot of my time on the bank looking for what I call spook routes. To cut a long story short, if I have a baited area that I’m
I frequently margin fish whenever I can, opting to stalk fish where possible. I also spend a lot of my time on the bank looking for what I call spook routes. To cut a long story short, if I have a baited area that I’m fishing to, before I do anything with that I will drop a rod each side of it where I have previously seen signs, or believe the fish to travel once they are spooked. These rods will always be positioned first, so in the case of spooking anything from the baited spot, I increase my chances of hooking one on the two ‘spook’ rods fished nearby on single bright hook baits. The amount of times I’ve hooked a fish on one of these rods while already playing one from the main spot, or after simply disturbing the main-spot rod by just reeling the rod in for example, is astonishing. It’s something I urge everyone to investigate and you’ll often be able to find these preferred routes by signs on the water’s surface, or shows when you’re already playing a fish. I’m not saying every cast to a baited spot will spook any present carp, but whether they do or not, you then have both options covered.The naked-chod setup lends itself perfectly to fishing in this way. A small, single, bright hook bait goes in with minimal disturbance and often
The naked-chod setup lends itself perfectly to fishing in this way. A small, single, bright hook bait goes in with minimal disturbance and often
This is how I like it to sit, giving the rig much more movement than a buoyant chod setup.
1. Firstly, slide a pierced 4mm bead up your main line. You cannot have any knots above this.
2. Strip the lead from the centre of an 18in length of leadcore. This will become the boom section.
3. Next, take a splicing needle and insert it into one end of the outer leadcore material.
4. Using a lighter, you then need to melt the frayed end of the leadcore material.
5. Ensure that you only melt a small amount. This ensures the swivel loop passes over it easily.
6. Next, pass your main line through the entire length of material, starting at the melted end.
7. Slide a 4mm chod bead and length of silicone or helicopter bead onto the hollowed leadcore (line inside).
8. Take the hollowed leadcore with the line inside, double it over, and pass a loop through a small clip.
9. Tie an overhand knot in the material, leaving the tag end loose.
10. Pass the tag end loop over the clip and fasten down, creating a palomar knot.
11. With the line still inside the material, you can now trim the tag end off to neaten it up.
12. Slide the size 8 ring swivel of your chod rig over everything and attach your lead (minus swivel).
After my initial discovery of the lazy chod sitting on the lake bed I spent time trialling it by adding lead wire to my pop-ups to ensure they sit low. It didn’t take long to discover the hook-holds were consistently better and I even found that I was hooking more fish.
I played around with the length of the chod but did suffer aborted takes with anything less than two inches, so soon settled for two and a half inches. The extra movement created by the low-sitting hook gave the rig those precious extra inches of travel if a carp was sucking at the bait from a greater distance. As well as this, the hook will always fall towards the bottom due to the weight in it, giving you better hook-holds. If the pop-up floated the whole rig, the buoyancy in the bait will always sit so that the rig is fully extended and prevent the weight in the hook giving you these better hook-holds. The anti-tangle properties and ability to sit over almost anything make it the perfect way to fish these spook routes for me, but then came the tinkering with the naked-chod setup itself.
When fishing a chod, the leader can sit up in the water and against any weed that’s present. For me, using a naked chod vastly improves the way it blends into the surroundings and over the years I’ve seen many ways of setting them up.
This mid-30lb common was caught in late autumn, fishing a bright single hook bait.
It’s imperative to have something attached at the bottom of the leader, lead end, to prevent the ring swivel of the chod rubbing against your main line and potentially breaking it. It’s also important to stop your rig from dropping all the way to the lead. This gap prevents a more severe angle caused by the rig and also stops the fish being able to use the direct weight of the lead to eject the rig. I’ve come up with an incredibly simple but effective way of doing it and it solves every issue I have with a regular naked chod. You can tie booms onto the bottom and suchlike, but this way has several benefits and, most importantly, is the safest way I can think of.
Inserting small lengths of lead wire into the pop-up overweight the rig, giving the ‘lazy chod’ effect.
By passing your main line through a length of around 18 inches of leadcore that has had the lead removed, you create a boom section for the setup. Having the top bead of your chod several feet up the main line creates plenty of distance for the rig to travel and, having melted the edge of the material before placing the line through it, the swivel will pass over the first two inches of hollowed leadcore before hitting the bottom chod bead. When the rig is pulled further down towards the lead in the event of hooking a fish, the hollowed leadcore coils up, stopping the bead from sliding in the process, and ultimately keeping the chod rig away from the lead. Not only is this setup completely safe in the event of a crack-off, but it goes far and above any standard-type naked-chod setup due to the few extra, simple attributes. I have been using the rig for quite a while now and I can’t see that changing anytime soon.
Tying a loop of PVA string through the loop of the chod rig and hooking it over the barb prevents it from catching anything as it enters the water and settles on the lake bed
It’s worth adding that I also tie a loop of PVA string to the loop in the bottom of the chod rig itself, and hook it over the barb to ensure that no debris or suchlike can get caught on the hook. It negates the need for PVA nuggets that can hamper casts and also spook an area when rising through the water – it’s the small percentages that really make the difference in this game. If you remove the lead from the setup, providing you have used a length of silicone to cover it, the chod rig tied with a size 8 ring swivel will pass over everything on the leader, including the 4mm bead with a little bit of care, and saliva.
*** This Feature Was Written In 2016 ***